After a relaxing rest day, I start out on a main road fairly early, so not busy. Further on I clamber up an embankment to find the Vias Verdes. It’s still impassable, so back to the road.
After reaching Trespaderne, and the mornings ritual of tent 🎪 drying and a second breakfast, I locate the Vias Verdes which meanders along the river Nela. The days are still dry, with a slight chill in the mornings. I’ll take that any day!
Most of the day consisted of arriving at a bridge on the greenway, then having to establish a route around the said bridge! These sections of the Vias Verdes aren’t officially open due to the bridges still been out of action, but are used by locals, so good enough by me! Still the trails are well graded and empty. What’s not to love 💚 about them!
I call into a little hamlet, Pradolamata. As I eyed what could well be a tidy camp spot for an early stop. It’s even sign-posted … Campa de uso publico (public use field). I’m thinking, perfect! Then two roosters 🐓 (work of the devil) 🐓 kick-off. I’m high tailing it before I’ve finished mumbling … FFS!
After my customary late afternoon water collection, this time near St.Peter’s church, I’m back on the trail looking for that elusive camp spot 🏕️ that is free from people, roosters and barking dogs! This one turned out very easy as perfectly positioned just off to the side of the greenway.
Nothing better than starting a cycling day on a Vias Verdes … bliss! Before long I’m into a tiny hamlet of Horna. Tent out, breakfast on the go. A couple local ladies stop 👵 👵 bob their heads, realise I’m a traveller (bum), say Hola (hello) and move on. I meander round the larger village of Villarcayo, but soon the greenway beckons and no people!
I’m on a mission for a nights accommodation. I’d like a Tapas or two and could do with getting some laundry done (stamping on clothes in a shower!). Using maps.me & booking.com I locate a Casa Rural (guest house … rural!) in Cigüenza. Hotel Rural Ana Mari. I obtained the room 🛌 a lot cheaper than on booking.com. Saves to ask! And those beers 🍻 were excellent.
Sometimes its nice not to pack a damp/wet tent away. Doesn’t mean I get away any sooner! Slight bit of thin mist hanging in the fresh morning air. Soon burnt off, though, by the rising sun 🌄 Not long I’m hanging my still wet laundry out while I tuck into my second breakfast.
The days are all remarkably similar … warm up, cycle empty greenways, look for routes around bridges 🌉 , repeat. Cherish it! Also, one really only has three concerns, water, shelter, food. In addition I’ve a fourth, knowing that I’ll eventually be back in the UK after 16 months! 😒
I noticed on maps.me a Hospedaje Peregrinos Camino De Santiago hostel in Jose Luis Talleres (a pilgrims hostel). I wasn’t looking to stay, just curios as to what they offer a pilgrim on an El Camino route? I didn’t stay long. It just looked a tardy establishment. Then the lady I bought a Magnum ice lolly from a corner shop in town was miserable as hell. Strange how you just don’t develop a intimate feel for a place. After filling my water 🚰 vestibules up I was soon out of dodge!
Not long back onto the greenway I come to what seems the end of this section. I think I’m at the end of a siding with a live railway line and platform just a way back.
After about an hour searching I settle on a spot to camp. Near’ish to a road, but an extremely quiet minor road at that, and I’m pretty well hidden. Great valley vista.
Photos generally shot with a Fujifilm X100T.
Click on the route for details or an icon for photos.